Today, Margaret and I left Fene super early. I woke up, well rested, a 5 am.
We had prepacked, as the day was to be even hotter than yesterday. We were ready at 6:45 – and hour earlier than yesterday. It was great! There was no traffic, no one on the street, and since we were in the city, there was plenty enough light. It was cool and everything was good.
Yes, the hill was steep. I had been planning to take a taxi and skip it. But I had been doing relatively so well, I thought I would give it a try. We walked up and up through city suburban neighborhoods, until the houses thinned out. It was lovely walking. And I did it!
By the time dawn lightened the sky, we made it to the eucalyptus forest. We were fortunate the timing was right, as we would’ve needed headlights just 20 minutes earlier. It was pretty and misty.
We came out at the top of the hill at Vila do Colo around 8 AM. It was very misty and slowly cleared. Since there was a coffee shop, and I wanted a hot chocolate…and a rest, we stopped in. The cacao I got was thick as soup and hot as hades. But good. So good!
The next part would be a challenge. The choice was to take a 5+ km walk along a busy highway with ‘dangerous road crossings’ or to take a green rural alternative route. However, we were supposed to bush whack through the underbrush to get on what used to be the route. Margaret flatly refused. It was hilly, steep, and wet. I can’t blame her. I suspect I’m lucky she put her foot down. It would’ve been stupid and dangerous.
Fortunately, I had looked very, very closely at the map. The more I studied it, the more I saw it had the details I needed. All we had to do was walk down the road; it curved around to where the trail crossed it. At that point, it was supposed to be well marked.
Margaret was dubious, but we persisted and we found the first arrow. I felt better. Super relieved. She said she would feel better when and if we saw another arrow. In short order, we did, and later she admitted it was a good choice; so much nicer than the roadway walk! We were both glad it worked out…and that we hadn’t attempted to bushwhack!
We walked through fields and forests, but mostly down narrow country lanes between suburban/farms. Margaret kept us entertained for most of the walk.
Leaving that area – all a steep downhill, we started coming into the city (even steeper downhills) to the beach area. We followed a slightly graveled path through some tall pines by the beach. It was very lovely. I walked on the grass, as I hate the sound and sensation of the gravel under my feet, and I was getting pretty footsore.
Finally, we got top the road where the traditional path is. We saw other peregrinos! I mean, this is unique! We just haven’t seen anyone else!
The sun came out. The traffic whizzed past us. By the time I got to the end of the long bridge, all I wanted was shade and quiet. I was totally done. We stopped for cold water, but it was too loud for me. I felt totally autistic. The sound of each car: four wheels grinding, separately, over the rough flagstones, as well as the gulls and trucks and people in the square, the smells and the noise, the sights, and sounds; it was all overwhelming!
Finally, we got to the shade that persists even at noonday, because the buildings are so tall; 3 or 4 stories. We found the hotel and went inside. Our room was not ready, so we got a ‘better’ room. But it was not ready either and we had to leave. We went a few blocks away and sat and I ordered a tortilla. This was only 3.50 euro. It was a huge slice of 1.25” of pie like dense egg/potatoe mix. Not really an omelet. Not what I think of as a tortilla. But so good! We polished it off swiftly.
This is the BEST hotel ever on the Camino Ingles – nice clean and well priced. Hotel Camino Do Eume !
Margaret went back out later, for more food, but when she got back, she started feeling nauseated. This got worse and worse, until she went to bed.
After a couple hours, I was hungry, but Margaret was asleep and I didn’t know where she put the keys, so I was kind of stuck. I ate snacks. After another good long time, I peeked around the corner to be sure she was breathing. Whew! She was!
After another bit, she got up. She seems to be feeling better, but isn’t planning on leaving tomorrow. I don’t exactly know how to get a taxi or what it will cost…
But I do know I can do this next hike on my own.
It’s okay.
So far it has all been okay. I can walk. I can hike. I am not dying. I am not in too much pain.
It’s okay!
And that is GREAT!!!
Food Wisdom Herbs Yoga: A Pursuit of Health & Happiness 